Rajasthan

Rajasthan is the trip people picture when they picture India: Amber's ramparts above a lake, Jodhpur's blue lanes under Mehrangarh, Udaipur's palaces standing in the water. Then, four hours west of anywhere, the sand starts and Jaisalmer's fort glows like a sandcastle somebody forgot to knock down.

The cities are far apart — five to six hours by road between each — so our trips either do the golden triangle of forts (Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur) or go deep into the desert from Jodhpur, never both in one go. We stay in havelis, not chain hotels: courtyards, painted ceilings and a rooftop for dinner.

Best time: October to March — cool mornings, warm afternoons, cold desert nights. April to June is 40 °C and above; the monsoon (July–September) is short and green but humid.